Thursday, December 18, 2008

Nine Mornings – Part I

The bakery is only a block and a half away from my house…at most two hundred steps. I go almost every day to buy fresh bread. I live on Peanut Butter, cheese, bread and fruit with a few things like cucumbers or cauliflower mixed into my diet. In my whole life, I’ve never lived alone – this is the first time. Learning how to eat while living alone requires some thought. I admit, I’m not very creative, but since I am basically a “serial” eater (eating the same thing day in and day out for years) I’ve become accustomed to my new pattern of eating.


Yesterday was no different. I could smell the fresh bread baking as I approached the bakery. I reached the counter and the baker looks up and says “three rolls?” I said, “yes”, and plopped a large silver dollar onto the counter while handing him a bag to put them in. He took the bag and money and disappeared in the back room. Seconds later he emerged with my bag filled with the three rolls that would later be accompanied with cheese or peanut butter.


I notice three women and a man standing on the corner. They are wearing blue t-shirts with letters printed on them spelling “Nine Mornings”. They have Santa Hats on their heads; some of which have blinking lights, others have the words “Merry Christmas” spelled out in glitter. I hear them talking and make out the words “Peace Corps”. Then I hear a whispered, “psst”. I look over and they motion for me “vini!” (translated: come). I walk over and one woman says, “Do you have the spirit of Christmas?” I must have a puzzled look on my face because they don’t wait for my answer. One woman says, “My name is Agie, and this is JoJo”, as she points to the man standing next to me. They invite me to get some spirit tomorrow morning. I ask what time and they respond, “four”. I respond, “four what – in the morning?” They nod their heads.


I ask them what they do at that hour of the morning and they give me some vague answer about going to “people’s houses”. I want to fit it and the more I do with people the easier it is to integrate, so I agree. One woman says, “So we have a date? I can come up to your apartment to get your tomorrow morning?” I want more information about what this is about, but they say, “You will see. It will be a surprise.” I agree.


All day I wonder why I agreed to do this. What are these people up to? I’m in a village where everything is new. Peace Corps spent a lot of time talking about actions having coded messages...dance with someone three times and it is a sign that you are now a couple; a man invited into your home signals to neighbors that you are having an intimate relationship; eat the food they serve and accept invitations so you don't appear aloof. Is there a signal I'm missing? I go to bed regretting my decision. Maybe it's something good. They visit lonely old ladies and bring them bakes and cocoa tea. Or maybe they go Christmas Caroling. But, then I think, maybe they terrorize the neighborhood. Maybe they stay up all night and get drunk and I’m at the tail end of some childish party. I have heard they slaughter animals for their holiday meals. Maybe they get together to help each other kill animals goats and pigs in preparation for the holiday. Alright, my imagination has gone wild hasn’t it? How dangerous can a few women and men with blinking Santa Hats and blue Nine Morning t-shirts be?


I woke with a start this morning. There is pounding on my door. Sleepy, I opened the door. I wanted to say, “Hey, I’m not doing this. Go away”. Instead I smiled and said, “give me a minute to put on some cloths and I’ll be out”. I threw on a t-shirt and a pair of shorts, pulled my hair back, sprayed my body with mosquito repellent and was out the door. Agie was talking to my landlady “Elizabeth”. This made me feel so much better. Elizabeth assured me I was in good hands and would have a good time. I was relieved. We would not be killing pigs and goats after all!


I will post Part II of this story later this week.

4 comments:

Anonymous said...

Dear AW(Amazing Woman)Mah-cah-thy,

Thank you for taking the time to explain Nine Mornings. I should know, since I live here, too! I had some clues from other PCVs' blogs. Scott S. on St. Vincent commented about waking up at 3:30 am nine mornings in a row, and Hailey T. in Canaries mentioned decorating gift bags. Otherwise I would not have known what the tradition of 9 mornings was! (We don't live in a village; we live live on a busy road.) And I thought I was integrating. Duh. Today when I walk to the small village - 15 minutes down the hill- where I go to get the bus, I will ask around. Maybe it's not too late for me to get in on this! If I've missed out, there's always next year.
Peace!
Lois

Karen's Planet said...

Hey Lois - Amazing woman here. I will finish my 9 mornings in a couple of days. This goes on for the 9 days before Christmas. Stay tuned!

RPCV Mali said...

Isn't it kind of cooooollll in the mornings at that hour? Hope you enjoy your nine morning experience!

Karen's Planet said...

It is cooler here now, but I have still not worn the light sweater that another PCV has given to me. I loved my nine morning experience. Life is great and I am loving each experience I have on this lovely island! Nice to have an RPCV friend!