The Black Stars

It’s difficult to understand the people without knowing something about their history.  When I was in Saint Lucia, I had a lot of time to read books, research the National Archives, talk to my village friends and chat with elders sitting on their porches and smiling while telling stories of the “olden days”. 

I don’t have enough time here to reach the depth of knowledge I would like to have. This trip is simply a short two months.  It is unfortunate, but I am attempting to learn as much as possible about Ghana so that I can apply this knowledge in my classroom upon return.  I have learned from talking to people, asking endless questions, visiting cultural centers and museums, visiting villages, connecting with a Peace Corps Volunteer and researching information on the Internet. It is with caution that I write what I have learned, knowing I am a novice in Ghanaian history.

Janyn arrived Saturday afternoon to begin a marathon around Accra before continuing on to Kumasi.  I am living in Accra and have a list of things I want to see.  Even though I’m directionally challenged, I know enough to get us through this part of the journey.  Ashley, the Peace Corps Volunteer I have hooked up with is going to get us through Kumasi.  Her village is just a short 45 minute tro-tro away. 

We spend Sunday at the French Cultural Center in Accra.  There are many ExPats and it feels somewhat strange to be in Ghana and among a diverse group of people from all over the world.  

We tried to attend a cooking demonstration, not to learn how to cook because that is not something I do, nor does Janyn.  No, We attended to eat the samples.  That is something we do.

As the demo started, the Ghanaians got up and stood in front of the table blocking the view of the Abrunies (foreigners) who follow their own cultural rules.  It appears they don't have the same rules and the chef encouraged them saying, "Yes, come up and watch".

It was a strange kind of day, but we agree that we are having a good time.

It is a National Public Holiday to observe Ghana’s first president, Kwami Nkrumah and the founding fathers of Ghana.  Most everything is closed.

I explain the little I have learned about Ghana's past to Janyn.  We will be going to Museums tomorrow and also visit the site where Nkrumah is buried.  

The British ruled the Gold Coast and the Ashanti from 1821 until they gained their independence on March 6 1957.  The Ashanti is the largest subgroup in Ghana.

The "Big 6" were responsible in large part for leading the way to independence.  They are pictured on Ghanaian currency.  Kwame Nkrumah became the first President of Ghana.  

In his early years, Nkrumah was a leader in the United Gold Coast Convention, seen by the British as a radical organization.  Blamed for organizing a riot, Nkrumah and other leaders were imprisoned in 1948.  Servicemen were angry about the high cost of living and not being paid their due.  The United Gold Coast Convention was accused of organizing the protests and its leaders were imprisoned.

After Nkrumah's release, he broke away from the Gold Coast Convention and formed the Convention People's Party (CPP).  He began organizing cocoa farmers and women to join in the movement to make a better life for themselves.  He became a national hero. 

Nkrumah demanded independence and became known for two major initiatives.  First, he gathered the resources and financial backing from the British, the United States and the World Bank to build the largest lake in the world, Lake Volta. The Akosombo Dam, a hydroelectric power plant was built on the river.  The intent was to bring Kaiser to build a large aluminum factory powered by the dam.

The map shows the proportion of the lake.

 

Ghana was in its infancy when it received abundant resources to build a thriving society.  Unfortunately, it is widely reported taht corruption ensued and the country divided as the vision became diluted.

Nkrumah's second focus was Pan Africa.  As the first country in Africa to receive independence, Nkrumah became a pioneer in the Pan African movement which I've also heard referred to as the United States of Africa.

As Lake Volta resources dissipated, arguments ensued over how the money was spent. People increasingly believed the vision would not become reality.  There were five attempts on Nkrumah’s life.  In the aftermath of these attempts he became more dictatorial and declared Ghana a one party system.  When he disagreed with a judges decision, he simply gave himself the power to overturn the decision.  Democracy eroded and the people were disillusioned.

In February 1966 Nkumbah took a trip to China and there was a military coups.  He never returned.  He lived the balance of his life in Guinea as the honorary Co-President.

After first being buried at his birthplace of Nkroful, Ghana, he was later reburied in Accra.  It is said by some that after years of resentment, people feel ashamed for the way he was treated.

So, with that much knowledge we are planning our trip to Independence Square, the Nkrumah Memorial Site and an unexpected side trip to the Arts Cultural Center.  Stay tuned.

In the meantime, here's a short video about Black Star Football that you may find interesting.